The last few days have all been about using the shortboard and then getting some more film footage.
I've been really pleased with how I've got on with the shortboard as they're difficult to get the hang of, this is because they're a lot more agile, move much quicker and are a lot less stable....
I’ve never been a big fan of clothes shopping as I find it tedious and time consuming and in days gone by when I went to buy clothes I’d usually go into the first store and find something I liked but not buy it, as I wanted “to see what everywhere else had going”....
Having reached what is roughly the half-way mark of my trip, here’s where I think Im up to. As I’ve spent much of the last fortnight at Doheny and San Onofre beaches with only one trip to Oceanside, I’ll focus on those two locations.
San Onofre – each time I’ve been, there has been really...
On Alex's penultimate day here we headed back to Doheny for another session and whilst the waves looked small from the beach, they were deceptively so as they had a lot of energy behind them and once they peaked were in the 4-5ft range - pretty decent.
This time...
This week I finally plucked up the courage to take Harriet's GoPro waterproof camera out with us as up to this point I'd not felt confident enough to catch and ride waves whilst filming at the same time and to be honest I “might not have got round to” it if Alex hadn’t asked me if we should try...