The last few weeks to try and make my time here a little less one-dimensional I’ve been getting out and enjoying a good slice of non-surf related activities, after all there’s no point paying for the full buffet and only going for Mac and Cheese…. O'Neil Regional Park Just this last...
There has been excellent swell coming up from Mexico over the last few days meaning that there have been some good waves, many of which I've managed to catch. The following are a selection of clips some which Jenny filmed from the beach (thank you) and a couple I caught with the GoPro.  1. This...

Big Bear!

With Jenny’s arrival in California on Friday we decided to depart the coast for a wee while and go inland, up into the hills for a couple of days. Prior to coming out here I’d heard about a resort town roughly 100 miles from San Clemente called Big Bear, which is renowned for its...
The waves have continued to be good over the last few days and enabled more filming, the below are a further selection: Good wave etiquette - avoiding other surfers  Missed the firs? Try the next one  Now that's more like it  A good right to left wave  But not every waves is a winner  Boom!   Last of the day - quit...
A few weeks ago I wrote about the work I’d started as a volunteer at the Family Assistance Ministries (FAM) in San Clemente, helping out in the warehouse with whatever was needed and I finished the story having been asked to help out on the morning ride-along in one of the trucks to pick...